You're home with your new puppy. Prepare to experience your first real "PuppyLove".
Start a Puppy File that will contain all of puppys information, health records, puppy sitter, articles of interests, care notes, veterinarian info, shopping items, hotels that accept dogs, health tips, behavior tips, pet insurance, micro chip # Breeder info, sales contract, Diet recipes....
Choose a simple name for your puppy. Short names are easier for puppy to learn. Teach the new name by using it consistently when your puppy comes running to eat or play, during walks, or during a quiet cuddle.
Time to Set up schedule for "everyone" w/ what has to be done and by who. You may include the kids, or that friend who owes you a favor, parents, or neighbors?
Leave out Food & Water Dishes all the time. ceramic or stainless steel are best. Dish washer friendly would be nice too. Visit the Puppy Food page for Food & Water suggestions. Click Here.
Proper grooming. -O.K. Kids your on!
u Bathing. Try not to bath your puppy for a long while after you bring him home. One vet explained it to me this way. The puppys body temperature cannot adjust fast enough to the water temp, then the dryer temp, then back to room temp. again. A adult dog can. But, a puppy was never meant to be bathed so much in the early months of life by water, soaps, and dryers. This seems to cause more stress on puppy. So, try to go easy on that if @ all possible. Also, try to use good shampoo's for puppys. That of oatmeal, aloe vera, or penny royal ...all natural.
u A safe easy in-between bath to sanitize puppy is: 1/2 water and 1/2 hydrogen peroxide in spritz bottle. Then just lightly spray bottom of feet-ect....and dab dry.
u Puppys Bath. Puppy should have his own towel, brushes, and bath supplies. Puppys list of Bath items is posted on the page, "Puppys Shopping List" page. Use a soft coated Slicker brush to brush out puppy. And, we use a Flea comb for under coats and that tiny hair around the eye's. It just works better. Now, here's our trade grooming secret (that Groomers dont want you know). For poodle mix's or long Fluffy coats to have "MAT FREE" low maintenance coats- one must "prep out the coat". Meaning you need to
prepare the coat by: use a dog clippers or mans mustache clipper to clip away fur under tail, under and behind ears, and under arm pits. Then take a "thinning scissors" and thin out coat on side's and wherever any mats are prone to be. Next, Bathe puppy. Finishing off w/ a puppy "Leave-On Conditioner". (we get ours from Revival). But, there is also another good brand sold via Foster N Smith. Dont rinse it out. Leave in. Just pat dry puppy, comb through, and finish w/ hair dryer on medium heat blowing down. Unless, you have a puppy cut, which is dryed any which way. Once the coat is treated this way, your puppy can go months w/o mats. And, you'll only need to comb/brush out puppy maybe 1-2 a week. This is something kids can help with. Also, most people keep a long coated dog in a Puppy cut. Which is 2" all the way around the body. You can do this too. Just scissor the body, under feet, under tail, under ears, and away from eye's about 1-2". Only adults are to do the ears, nails, and teeth. We clean ears w/ Q-Tips and Tea Tree Oil. Also, we use a kitten nail clipper for our puppy/ dogs. It just works better. As you might have experienced, clipping the nails too short can cause bleeding. Its hard to find the "Quick" in order to avoid this. So, try to get to know the length of the nail. You'll need to buy a "stop bleed" powder just in case. The teeth can be wiped w/ puppys own wash cloth over your index finger.
Puppys need to experience letting a person touch their teeth while they're young. Your puppys teeth will be completely replaced w/ adult teeth by 5-6 months of age. Most of the baby teeth will be swallowed, but you might get lucky and find a few. -Teach your puppy to enjoy being groomed.
Provide safe toys and games. Hey, kids your on again! Make sure toys are large an sturdy enough so they cant be swallowed. And, make sure the toys are safe. Some toys are terry cloth w/ cotton fill. One puppy chewed threw the cloth and swallowed the fill that then got caught up in the intestines. Surgery was required and the puppy had alot of his intestines removed. So, he had to have a strict diet w/ small portions many timesa day for the rest of his life. Thats not all. At the vets office someone put his I.V.on leg too tight and he had to have his leg amputated. Fortunately, he was loved riduculously his entire life. Good toys are: Nyla bones, kongs, and plain rawhide chews are our favorites.
-Put toys away betwee play sessions and alternate them so your puppy won't tire of them.
*after each session you need to be the last one w/ the toy item. Showing puppy your the pack leader (the boss).
-Avoid tug-of-war or games that encourage dogs to wrestle with or chase children and adults. These games can teach aggression and to compete for power behaviors. Puppy must know-your the boss. Play fetch the ball (stick).
-Give puppy opportunity to play w/ other dogs, especially ones close to his age. And, with other pets that will not harm each other.
Start Basic Training: Confine puppy to a specific area. Demo pictured below. This is our "Puppy Set Up" for @ least 6-7 mo. Work w/ puppy from this area. This set up can be positioned in a kitchen, hallway, living room area...As long as puppy can "See" you all. They freak when they are isolated. And, this tends to cause more problems. The reason for the control of freedom is that - we discovered these small breeds have too much space.
u First, we think they literally get lost in space. From their vantage point - the more they have to learn (and they are learning every second) the more it confuses and distracts them. It is unrealistic to expect a young puppy to adapt to all the rooms filled w/ objects, smells, textures, sounds, person's, other pets, along with housebreaking, play, sleep, eating schedule's...@ one time! It's too much for the little guy. And only delays puppy from the more important tasks @ hand. Puppy can learn faster w/ less distractions from the "Puppy Set Up" allowing them to focus on their main tasks.
u Second, within eye shot of them, you're in a better position to act promptly with rewards & discipline's. Please, know that you'll need to use rewards & discipline alot in the beginning. Its work yes but temporary...eventually, you'll have the best behaved dog in the neighborhood for the next 15 yrs. or so. And, once they got the routine down you can graduate puppy to another room, and so on till puppy comes to know the house limits...
Establish your routine. This involve's you and other family members. We are creating a Task Chart for this soon. But, for now, you'll need to schedule who does what & when. Puppy needs to get back on track w/ going on newspapers. Puppy is going regulary on newspapers here. But, once they get into a new home....we think- they think they can do whatever. Everything is different for them and everyone is loving them up may distract them from what they're use to. So, dont let those big brown eyes fool you. They need your loving along w/ training from the get go.
Housebreaking. (should be renamed roombreaking) Because, thats where little dogs begin. Puppies under 6 months old may be unable to control their bowels reliably. Here's our BIG-Housebreaking Tip for teacup - small dogs (that the books dont tell you because they are coming from a beagle or lab puppy standpoint. They're forgetting about the "lost in space issue's"). TAKE AWAY PUPPYS FREEDOM. And do the "Puppy Set Up" (illustration bottom of page). Puppy needs to go asap on the new schedule along w/ rewards/ discipline. Puppy times to go are: First thing in morning, after eating, after taking a nap, and before bed. This is hard in the beginning for sure, but it's temporary. And, when you see results it gets easier. People must be determined to tough it out w/ this schedule. Sometimes, housebreaking can be made easier w/ a existing family dog who is already housebroke. Just take them out together as much as possible.
In general- Housebreaking can be challenging if one doesnt have education in housebreaking technics w/ teacup to small breed dogs. The # one reason people surrender their dog to human society is because of housebreaking issues.
Anyway, in time- the newspaper area can be transported to wherever you decide forevermore. This could be right outside for warmer climate homes. Some condo / apartment dwellers have been pretty ingenious in creating area's for puppy/dog to go. Such as: 1.) use a x-large kitty litter type plastic tray w/ higher sides filled w/ newspapers. Can be stored in closet / laundry room. 2.) Use a old large wood end table or coffee cabinet with doors underneath for storage: remove doors and install a swing doggie door. Paint inside with a water repellent paint or line inside w/ hard plastic board. Store the newspaper tray inside. Some, use a puppy litter but its expensive-about 10.a bag. Never use actual kitty litter for a puppy. Also, you can buy a similar little dog kennel made out of wicker. And, there's wood dog kennels made to look like furniture. OR if your in the colder climate weather: many prefer the attached garage w/ child's small swimming pool filled w/ sand or newspapers. Or fenced off area w/ newspapers down. Outside is hard as puppies will get a bad taste in there mouth and shy away from freezing weather. So, one can install a 40-75 watt light bulb in the area you choose for puppy/dog to go. Treats are going to be a big incentive for puppy to go outside in all kinds of weather conditions. A covered area would be good to for snow and rain. We think a simple fenced off area in the yard itself is good so, puppy/ dog isnt going all over your yard. Especially, when kids are involved.
Take Five! Relax w/ puppy on our lap. This isnt time to play or eat. Its a nice part of your bonding time. Hang out, quiet, brush time.
Reward System Tiny bits of hot dogs for housebreaking reward only. Its cheap and they love hotdogs.
Discipline System (and you must have one). This varies depending on who you ask. But, your puppy has been introduced here to:
empty soda can filled w/ several pennies, ducked taped to a long stick. We shake can to raddle by hitting the wall or floor. But, for some puppies they get a tap on the rump. (sorry-if we offend anyone). We are not talking about beating the little guy - But, a tap for touch. This tap along w/ the noise raddle from penny can- clearly stops puppy/ dog in their tracks. They stop and submitt.
There's, probably animal activites that may challenge this method. But, they'd have to come here and see for themselves. We have approx.30 dogs here and litters in nurseries of mom's w/ their puppies @ any given time. Unless, its play feed or play time one can hear a pin drop. There is full control w/ well behaved puppy/ dogs. Its a beautiful site to see.
Make sleep time comfy. Provide soft clean linens n' such. Fleece or wool is really nice. Unless your on the west coast. Then cotton is good. Also, Some sleep w/ their dogs which we have to say is not a good idea in our opinion. Sorry Folks, due to documented sanitary reasons...but a doggie bed next to yours is ok. Restrict range of motion w/ a short leash. Much Older pups, adults can be kenneled @ night.
Choose the right collar. Collars should fit w/ some slcak but not loosely enough to slide easily over the head. Allow for two finger-widths of space between the neck and collar. Check collars fit every 2 wks.or so. As they grow fast and it may get too tight.
-have 2 collars. one for everyday w/ I.D. tag...and another for training.
-With childrend who'll be walking the dog...the chest harness type is better. Seasonal matching collars and leashes are fun.
-Let puppy get use to his collar n' leash by letting him wear them around indoors.
-Regular lesh walks prevent regression in housetraining and other problem behaviors. Daiy leash walks should be a lifetime commitment to your dog.
Choose the right leash. A 4' leash will make it easier to keep your active puppy under control. A longer leash gives him too much leeway to get into mischief. Hold leash firmly around your wristband in case dog lunges or tries to chase after that squirrel!
Socialize your puppy. You have a window of opportunity to easily get puppy to accept anything and everything. For the first year of puppys life (that is before he wises up) introduce him/her to cats, dogs, turtle's, birds, kids, mailman, relatives/friends, travel tote bags, shoppping, swimming, travel in car/plane, vet, groomer....with your calm Re-assurance (situation may call for rewards) they accept everything. Remember, they're only gallable for so long...(oh well). After that time, its more time consuming for you to get them acclimated to something new. Not that they cant adjust. Only, they are amazingly adaptable to different situations while young. And eventually, when older.
For help your welcomed to Call Me @ 920.834.2028 ask for jenny Or Contact:
Members of these specialty organizations are available to help you:
*American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine *American College of Veterinary Anesthesiologists
*American College of Veterinary Behavioriosts *American College of Veterinary Emergency and Critical Care
*American College of Veterinary Nutrition
The Best Training today is the "Dog Whisperer" Cesar Milan. His DVD is approx. $39. but has Important lifetime-easy behavior training! And, now there's a new DVD just for puppys!
Let's Go Shopping! (ok, we all can handle that!).
Learn where to get the same stuff we use and more. Supplies, cool collars and travel bags check out "Puppy Shopping List" click here
Now that your all set up. Use this guide as an easy reference. And, keep our website around for Article's of Interest about puppys. Dont forget to start your puppy file. If you have any suggestions for us please, feel free to share them w/ us.
Thank You for letting us show you our Custom Puppy Care Instructions. We hope these suggestions will promote a long healthy lasting bond between you and your new puppy, and enrich the many happy years you'll spend together. OPL
